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伦敦时装周

2017秋冬英国伦敦时装周 –女装专题

--London Fashion Week 2017

伦敦时装周被期许为充满新鲜创意元素、与传统并重的时装盛会。(大纪元合成Getty Images 图片)

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【大纪元2017年02月27日讯】(大纪元英国记者艾米报导)2017年2月17日,伦敦时装周在Store Studios正式拉开帷幕,直至21日晚五时结束,预计吸引五千名来自世界各地的时尚工作者云集伦敦,展出五十余场时装秀和三十余场静态展出。

Models present creations from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 20, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Burberry 时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)

相比巴黎女装高级订制圣殿、米兰盛产原料和精湛的工艺以及纽约的简约多金,伦敦时装周被期许为充满新鲜创意元素、与传统并重的时装盛会。这里有百年老店Burberry风衣和Mulberry手包,Savile Row的定制裁剪套装和华丽的皇家军衣,有英国王室为服装产业颁发的皇家令和女王勋章,盛产一流的羊毛粗精纺面料和爱尔兰蕾丝。同时伦敦拥有两所顶级的时装设计学府圣马丁和皇家艺术学院,本土设计师源源不断地涌现。英国时装委员会(British Fashion Council)对时装产业的大力推广和鼓励多元化、兼并包容外来文化,许多海外设计师来伦敦学习深造,并在英国创立品牌,大量丰富多元的文化元素在这里碰撞、沉淀精炼,也正是伦敦时装周生命力和创造力的魅力所在。

17年伦敦秋冬充满了惊喜,Anya Hindnorch的招牌笑脸、Mulberry浅色的绸缎quiting外套、Burberry秀场曲终时华美的变身、 Erdem、Christomhper Kane等设计师用刺绣、珠光点缀成璀璨的花卉,Daks、 Margaret Howell依然保持低调的西装裁剪,极简主义Eudon Choi本季带来皮包系列。

轻柔娇美、或明快绚丽的颜色一扫秋冬的暗色厚重,面料除了传统的羊毛,还使用了大量具有光泽感的丝绸面料;面料纹理精致,还有色彩丰富的丝线刺绣、流光溢彩的珠光绣片,天鹅绒烫花等花式;毛衫趋向细致的针织,牛仔面料色度饱和、或多重打磨处理形成图案。

连衣裙裁成自然直身略收腰,端庄优雅的及踝长裙、上衣的肩袖变化丰富、羊腿袖、 袖口卡夫宽大、抑或直接做成飘带、大量的宫廷式抽褶领袖口,中式斜开襟。下装多见宽腿裤、不对称解构式裙摆加上混搭面料,层次感十足。

(一)秋冬之璀璨花卉

ERDEM一如既往的繁花拥簇,这一季的图案是庭院树木和花卉的组合,粉色和橘色的天鹅绒烫花散泛著美丽的光泽。

本季的Mulberry强调英伦特色,宽松格纹裁剪狩猎套装、宽大的quilting外套搭配褶裙。华丽之余,一款浅绿色的丝绸碎花quilting外套格外清透典雅。

Peter Pilotto、Simone Rocha、 Joseph、Daks也以不同的方式呈现花卉图案。值得一提的是,在色彩缤纷的花卉图案上,还有多种精细面料拼接混搭,精彩令人目不暇接。 

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 17: A model walks the runway at the DAKS show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 17, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
DAKS时装,2017年2月17日英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM时装,2017年2月20国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM时装,2017年2月20日英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
Mulberry时装,2017年2月19日英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Simone
Simone Rocha 时装,2017年2月19日英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images)
Joseph
JOSEPH 时装,2017年2月19日英国伦敦时装周 (Photo credit by NIKLAS HALLE’N/AFP/Getty Images)

(二)华美宫廷风

Burberry以轻松的风衣、直身长衬衫开场,棉质衬衫上有荷叶边、细碎褶皱等细节,不对称粗针织毛衫搭在长衬衫外面。本以为一切在平淡中品味,然而在秀的最后,歌手Anna Calvi的曲调一转,鱼贯而出的模特们忽然以高级订制式的华丽新装现身,让人惊喜不已。原来每个人都穿搭上一件件各不相同的唯美短披肩,有厚羽毛式的、珍珠式的、亮钻连缀而成的披肩帽,据时尚博主称伊丽莎白女王一世和男伯爵都是这些华美单件的灵感来源。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Models walk the runway at the Temperley London show during London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Temperley London 时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
Models present creations from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 20, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Burberry时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Models present creations from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 20, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Burberry时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)

(三)古典气质

Emilia Wickstead利用面料本身的质感,立体裁剪出宽松带有体量的女性化廓形,在腰际松松地打上褶,营造出一种自然含蓄的古典风范。

A model presents a creation by New Zealand-born designer Emilia Wickstead during a catwalk show on the second day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 18, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
设计师Emilia Wickstead的时装作品,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by New Zealand-born designer Emilia Wickstead during a catwalk show on the second day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 18, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
设计师Emilia Wickstead的时装作品,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: Erin O'Connor walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM 时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)

(四)美好的纯真

Anya Hindnorch的秀场似乎总有道不尽的美丽童话。几何形的山坡变换着色彩光影, 粉色、橘色、蓝色、明黄色、灰色羊绒面料裁剪成款式乖巧的外套,搭上方方的皮草翻领,或者是染色明亮、毛茸茸的方形皮草披肩,教养良好的富家少女背著书包漫步在未来感十足的光洁小山坡上,纯真无邪,十分娇憨可爱。

Margaret Howell依然率真英伦少女形象,简洁宽大的衬衫和西装裁剪,搭配针织帽,不爱繁复的装饰,只爱简单的本色。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Models prepare backstage ahead of the Anya Hindmarch show during London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Anya Hindmarch 时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Model walk on the runway at the Anya Hindmarch show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images)
Anya Hindmarch时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Margaret Howell show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections at Rambert on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
Margaret Howell时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Margaret Howell show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections at Rambert on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
Margaret Howell时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)

(五)青春无边界

一系列大胆的色彩和廓形诠释伦敦时装周的大胆创意。2014年得到LVHM大奖的 Marques’Almeida ,本季带来色彩饱和蓝色的牛仔,以及粗犷的不对称解构线条、充满力量的色彩和几何图形。

Christomhper Kane本季在柔软的面料上使用大量金属色,造型十分前卫。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 18: A model walks the runway at the House of Holland show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 18, 2017 in London, England (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the Christopher Kane show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Mike Marsland/Getty Images)
Christopher Kane 时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Mike Marsland/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 21: A model walks the runway at the Marques'Almeida show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 21, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Marques’Almeida 时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 21: A model walks the runway at the Marques'Almeida show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 21, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Marques’Almeida时装,2017年2月英国伦敦时装周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)

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