【寧姨加廚】海洋省份的飲食文化

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【大紀元2014年11月11日訊】加拿大東部省份的新不倫瑞克省、新斯科捨省和愛德華王子島合組成了「海洋省份」。從西海岸飛到那裏不錯需要將近一天的時間(大約4700公里),但是這片美得令人窒息的土地實在值得!她有著戲劇化的鋸齒狀海岸線和加拿大境內數一數二風景如畫的城鎮。著名的地方包括卡博徑(Cabot Trail),芬迪灣( The Bay of Fundy),佩吉灣(Peggy’s Cove)和綠山牆的安妮的家居( Anne of Green Gables’ home)。我們未曾住過那地卻經常造訪。
  
16世紀初法國人開始在這一帶定居,據加拿大歷史所,這地區算得上歷史悠久。原住民已經在這裡生活了6000多年,並教導早期移民如何獵野獸、打魚、種水果和取楓糖漿。英格蘭和法國人入侵的時候,有阿卡迪亞人(The Acadians)之稱的早期法國人被迫離遷往美國南部,在那裏他們被稱為卡津人(Cajuns)。一些卡津人最終返回故居,並帶來了他們的菜餚:燉肉濃湯( fricots)和碎雞肉土豆或海鮮派(râpure )。新登陸的英格蘭人則帶來了玉米和烤豆,並將油炸和燒烤的烹飪方法引進此地。德國、英國、愛爾蘭和蘇格蘭的移民們分享了酸菜、醃肉、醃鯡魚和燕麥餅,對當地食物文化頗有貢獻。
  
當地常見的菜餚有著很不常見的名字,例如Chow Chow是醃綠番茄;Solomon Gundy則是醃鯡魚;鹹牛肉煮胡蘿蔔捲心菜、蕪菁和土豆是皮斯布丁(Pease pudding); Figgy Duff就是簡單的蒸無花果布丁,配厚糖漿同吃;還有Blueberry Gruntshi 是含藍莓醬和奶油的餃子狀甜品。Poutine a Trou是帶有鹹味的甜派,內裡是鹹豬肉、土豆和蘋果,外面鋪上水果蜜餞或楓糖漿;Poutine Rapee是阿卡迪亞人的豬肉燉土豆;而Rapie Pie則是雞肉燉土豆。Hodge Podge通常是春天的菜餚,由新鮮土豆加豌豆、青豆和胡蘿蔔燉出來的高湯。
  
當地的其他美食還有海鮮濃湯、鱈魚舌、海豹鰭派、麵包穈糊、紅皮藻(可以當薯片吃的脆海苔)、蕨菜和楓糖漿。值得一提的是,新不倫瑞克省的Florenceville可是世界有名的炸薯條之都。
  
海洋省份的捕魚業是一項重要工業:大西洋三文魚、鯡魚、鱒魚,以及扇貝、蝦、青口、蠔和龍蝦等帶殼類海產收穫頗豐。雖然鱈魚捕撈業在1992年崩潰,但當地人仍然允許釣鱈魚,只是不准商業捕撈。海洋省份的另一個重頭戲則是海苔。
  
該省份的肥沃田野和山谷帶來聞名世界的愛德華王子島土豆,新斯科捨省(Nova Scotia)Annapolis山谷的蘋果,以及數不勝數的藍莓、覆盆子、黑莓、草莓、梨、紅莓、玉米和蕨菜等蔬果。
  
優越的啤酒和葡萄酒一樣有。Propeller and Alexander Keith啤酒便在1982年誕生於哈利法克斯省。此外還有朗姆酒、伏特加、杜松子酒和Glenora Glen Breton 10年期的純麥威士忌等烈酒。
  
海洋省份的龍蝦更是聞名遐邇,不但在全加境內銷售,還遠銷美國乃至海外,產量一度超過現今。龍蝦曾經被認為是窮人的食物,漁夫的孩子們如果午餐帶了龍蝦三明治,就會被其他孩子取笑。今時不同往日,龍蝦已經成為慶祝活動和特殊場合中、樂意和親朋好友在餐廳裡分享的珍貴美。
  
在店舖和餐廳裡見到的龍蝦都來自新斯科捨省,且供應量充足,所以全年有售、價格合理,令人高興。
  
配酒推介:本杰明大橋潮汐灣白葡萄酒(Benjamin Bridge Tidal Bay)

配龍蝦的餐酒可以是汽酒(sparkling wine)、香檳(Champagne)或沙當妮(Chardonnay)。想要再地道些,最好還是配海洋省份的葡萄酒。來自新斯科捨省的本杰明大橋酒莊的葡萄酒在卑詩省酒舖也可買到。這是混合了阿卡迪(L’Acadie)和沙當妮(Chardonnay)葡萄釀製而成的白酒,橘果氣息繞樑,甜韻婉約。酒精濃度只有11%,清新芬香,酒韻留傳,適合搭配殼類海鮮,包括龍蝦和微熱的菜餚,冷藏之後口感尤佳。@

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Epoch Times October 2014

Eating in The Maritimes
By Judith Lane

Canada’s eastern provinces – New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island–make up the Maritimes. While it takes almost a day to fly there from the West Coast (it’s about 4700 kilometers), it’s a land of breathtaking beauty with dramatic, jagged coastlines and some of the most picturesque towns in Canada. The best-known places include the Cabot Trail, the Bay of Fundy, Peggy’s Cove and Anne of Green Gables’ home. My family didn’t live in the Maritimes but we visited often.

The area has a long history by Canadian standards which date back to French settlements in the early 1600s. First Nations have existed here for over 6,000 years and taught early settlers about wild game, fish, fruit and maple syrup. The Acadians (French settlers), forced off their land when England and France invaded, went to the American south where they were known as Cajuns. Some eventually came back bringing with them dishes like fricots (stews) and râpure (grated potato and chicken or seafood pie). New Englanders brought corn and baked beans and introduced deep-frying and barbecuing while German, British, Irish and Scottish settlers shared sauerkraut, cured meats, pickled herring, oatcakes and more contributing to the food culture.

Some of the popular local dishes have unusual names. Chow chow is green tomato pickles; Solomon Gundy is pickled herring; Pease pudding is salt beef cooked with carrots, cabbage, turnip and potatoes; Figgy Duff, a simple, steamed pudding, is served with molasses; and Blueberry Grunt is a dumpling dessert with blueberry sauce and cream. Poutine à Trou, a salty-sweet pie made with salt pork, potatoes and apples, is topped off with fruit preserves or maple syrup; Poutine râpée is an Acadian pork-potato dish, and rapie pie is an Acadian poultry dish. Hodge Podge, eaten in springtime, is a stew made with new potatoes, peas, green beans and carrots cooked in milk broth.

Other local delicacies include seafood chowder, cod tongues, seal flipper pie, porridge bread (made with cold, cooked porridge), dulse (dried seaweed is eaten as a snack like potato chips), fiddleheads, and maple candy. Worth noting, Florenceville, New Brunswick is the French fry capital of the world.

Fishing is a huge industry in the Maritimes. Atlantic salmon, shad and trout and shellfish including Digby scallops, shrimp, mussels, oysters, and lobsters are all harvested. The cod fishing industry collapsed in 1992 but locals are still allowed to ‘jig’ for cod but not fish commercially. Seaweed is another part of the Maritime’s ocean bounty.

The Maritimes’ fertile fields and valleys produce world-famous Prince Edward Island potatoes and apples from Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley. Blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, pears, cranberries, corn and fiddleheads are plentiful.

The region is known for very good beer (think Propeller and Alexander Keith’s which began in Halifax in 1820) and wines as well as spirits like rum, vodka, gin and excellent Glenora Glen Breton 10 Year Old Single Malt Whiskey.

Lobster–the Maritimes best known export (it’s shipped across Canada, to the USA, and overseas)–was once even more abundant than today. It was considered ‘poor man’s’ food and school children made fun of fishermen’s kids who brought lobster sandwiches for lunch. Things are different today: lobster is prized for celebrations and special occasions and enjoyed in restaurants with friends and family.

The lobsters that we see in fish shops and restaurants around the city are from Nova Scotia. Happily they’re in plentiful supply, affordable and available year-round.

Enjoy lobster with sparkling wine, Champagne or Chardonnay. To be really authentic, pair it with a wine from the Maritimes. Two from Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge winery
are available in BC Liquor Stores.

Wine pairing: Benjamin Bridge Tidal Bay
Fresh and aromatic, this expressive low-alcohol (11%) white wine from Nova Scotia made from L’Acadie and Chardonnay grapes is crisp and citrusy with a touch of sweetness. It’s ideal with shellfish including lobster, and dishes with a bit of heat. Serve well chilled.

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